Showing posts with label Sewing Tips and Tricks. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sewing Tips and Tricks. Show all posts

Saturday, January 3, 2015

Adding Bows To Totes and Purses

 
 
I often use two styles of bows on my purses and totes, and have a few tricks to share.  I use a variety of gros grain ribbon, without wire, and prefer this over satin ribbons.  I have found my machines sort of eat the satin and twist it around easily, the gros grain is more forgiving.

First I apply the wrap around ribbon, I use monofilament quilting thread on the top, and sometimes on the bottom.  You can also use a cotton on the bottom in a matching color to the ribbon.  This way if the monofilament pulls the bobbin to the top it will blend with the ribbon.

  • Bag or item to be embellished
  • Ribbon
  • Fray check
  • Monofilament thread, I prefer quilting type, I find it thinner and stronger
 
Using a larger basting stitch, I hold the ribbon in place as I sew, I do not use pins as I like to reduce the amount of holes put into the ribbon, also it shifts so it does need adjusting along the way.  I sew on the top of the ribbon, and again on the bottom, two rows of stitching.  I also try to sew the top in one direction, flip and sew in the opposite the bottom row.  This helps to not have it twist and pull the bag out of shape.

Once you have the ribbon around the bag, you can decide on your style of bow, either a tied bow or a looped bow, I will start with the looped bow, for this will be using a different sample from above.

 
 
Start by looping ribbon back and forth, for this tote the bow is about 4 inches, pinching in fingers add 2 loops per side.
 



Once you have the loops finish off with a center loop, which will form a circle, cut end off and included in the center, fray check is a good idea on this open edge.


Pin bow, now it is ready to be added to your bag.  I remove my presser foot and use the "top" of my buttonhole stitch, but a zig zag stitch set at "0" would achieve the same result.  I tack this back and fourth about 6-10 times.  You can see the tack in picture 2 - remember this is a clear thread, but it is there.  Be sure to sew through and secure all layers. 



Repeat on the bottom, I just push the bow up to do the same at the bottom of the bow, now it is tacked on top and bottom, 



 
 Trim the thread, to release the loops, and admire you perfect looped bow.


Now for the tied bow.  I sew my length of ribbon, in this case I use about 20 inches, I sew it perfectly perpendicular to the ribbon installed on the tote.  I fold the edges inward to the center, then I simply sew back and forth 6-10 times to secure it in place. 




Using what I call the Martha Stewart method of time a bow, I simply tie it starting like this then looping as if tying a shoe.





Trim ends, and treat with fray check, your bow embellishment is complete.

Examples of each on a completed tote.





Wednesday, March 21, 2012

Favorite Sewing Tools: Corner / Point Turners

I have loads of sewing tools and notions some intended for sewing others not, but that work well in the sewing room. One of my essential go to tools, and one that drives me mad if I cannot find is a corner turner or point turner.

My favorite is actually a notion that is specifically made for this, it is white and smooth with a rounded edge, I actually have 3 of these so the chance of losing them all is low. I also have blue one with a pointy edge, a ruler and a button guide, I use this too, less often.

I also use other tools for this task, firstly a chop stick, this is good for reaching into longer spaces when my hand will not fit. Just be sure if it is wood that there are no splinters that could snag fabric, a nail file will help eliminate those rough spots.

Pencil, in a pinch I use a pencil, I stick with a white marking pencil as it is almost never "sharp" and will not leave big marks like a lead pencil.

Below is a nifty stylus that I got as a paper crafting tool, it has a very fine ball point. This is intended to work with embossing plates from Fiskars, I actually have no clue where my plates are but this is a good tool for tight corners.


Perfect corners are essential and easy with my many corner turning tools!

Friday, January 27, 2012

Mass Producing the Handmade Way

I find the only way I can make and keep up with stocking is to sort of "mass produce" my items. Often this is done in big steps, this is about cutting. I use rotary cutters to pretty much cut everything out, scissors are used for trimming and snipping and some items that have curved edges, though I often rotary cut those as well.

I use primarily two sized rotary blades, 45mm, and 60mm and use two different sized rulers, a 6 x 12 inch and a 6.5 x 24 inch. In tandem and in use with my rotary mat I can efficiently cut all my items. The above pic shows both rulers used to cut an item that is 13 inches wide, using side by side, I can cut easily items up to 18.5, bigger then this I often use the markings on the rotary mat.

In this picture I have cut coin purse interlinings, I simply lay out interfacing to on the entire rotary mat, I cut and my needed size, and sub cut the width. Lucikly I am able to cut from three sides as needed on my table, which allows me to move around the cutting area. It takes a bit of practice to get the most you components to reduce waste.

This picture shows how little waste there is for me when cutting in bulk, this shows linings for totes, and small leftover pieces that go into wristlet handles.

Stacks and stacks of coin purses and such, stacked with their respective sized item. I cut most fabrics individually and often cut all fabric I have, so I have coordinate items ready at all times. Offline I sell items in sets so cutting it at that moment is a time saver, just stack by respective item.

I spent Thursday cutting, literally about 8-10 hours of cutting. During this stage I try to cut as much as possible to prep for ironing (which my husband does, see this post) and sewing. I plan the items to be made from each fabric and work to cut in most case all the fabric I have, if I have something 1/2 yard or less I almost is cut fully into items. Many items are fussy cut, so it needs one on one attention to make it look its best. I have several places and a pretty good system for sorting and stacking.

This is a three shelf bookshelf that I have on one end of my sewing table, I stack items here to keep somewhat organized.

This is stacks of a "new" item I am working on (post to be coming soon) on an ereader cover. This has been a bit of a challenge to get a good size, so I have actually cut a few times this item. As this is a new item and this takes 3 different sizes of interlining, I have had to label these as they are easy to confuse with other items. Cutting multiples allows me to do many at once without shifting gears, clearing space or tracking down a component during sewing.


These are tote linings that are awaiting their bags, this used to be a much more labor intensive task, thanks to my industrial sewing machine these are so much easier and kind of fun to make now. Work in like color both fabric and thread and it is easy to get a lot done in a shorter amount of time. These will be stored until bags and handles are ready. I am now confident enough in my items and all my selling outlets that for some of my totes I make 3-5 at a time. I am also trying to do more solid and more uniformed linings to help speed up production.

Tuesday, October 11, 2011

Jessie Costume Ideas and Tutorial (sort of)

We started planning and buying for my daughters Jessie costume I think in March, so no excuses to not get done!

I had purchased from mom to mom sales a pair of jeans for $1.00 and a white oxford for $3.00 feeling very economical and smart for making this costume for such a great price. Well as these things go the devil or cost is in the details.


For the costume I had to add cow fabric, yellow fabric and red trim for the shirt, and the white fringe for the jeans which is probably my favorite part was in fact the most expensive, I think my bill still is less then about $20.00 not so bad...but there will be more we still need shoes...or boots as my daughter reminds me and a belt or something that will resemble a belt.

So as it is just the 11th of October I have the jeans and the hat completed, actually for the hat I still want to add ribbon accent and elastic for keeping it in place. And of course there is all that red yarn hair!

Great part about this was learning how to attatch the fabric to the jeans, literally up in bed one night thinking about it I realized that I would have to take the jeans apart slightly to do this with my machine. The option of hand appliqueing was a consideration as well, ultimately I decided this would be easier, I think it was.

I tore out the serged and sewn seams on the outer part of the jeans, from the hem, up to the reinforcement stitching which is just about at the pocket. You can sort of see below, sorry for the blurred pics.

Next I made my cow fabric insert, really all I needed to do was make more or less a rectangle, since the side seam of the jeans was open I just let that hang over and catch it when putting the jeans back together. I ironed a hem for the inner leg and the top (at a slight angle) used lots of pins to pin and place and sewed down to the jeans using a monofilament quilting thread (clear).


To finish, layer the jeans back together inside out with fringe inside, sew jeans back together and re-hem

The red hat was super easy once I found this foam hat at the Dollar Store - hooray, was considering a $25.00 option on Amazon. A simple yarn embellishment makes this close to the Jessie original.

Simple enough I marked all the way around the hat I did about 3/4 inch in from the edge and about 1 inch apart. Weave the yard around and tie off underneath the hat, I also taped it down, left the tails long for now...just in case.

Completed jeans and hat, so excited to have these done, I will be doing posts when I complete the shirt, hair and yes the belt.

Monday, April 11, 2011

Refashion Denim Jacket

What I had intended to be a sort of tutorial is now just a show and tell with a few hopefully "helpful" hints on how to refashion your own denim jacket. I got this jacket for my 5 year old at a mom to mom sale last fall for just $2.00. It was just about brand new, of course these types of jackets can take a fair amount of wear and still look brand new.

Fabric choices, 1/4 yard of the big flower dots, which was my focal, then coordinating 1/8 yard cuts of compliments and a few yards of rick rack and trims

I also wanted to make a statement type of jacket with a little more grown up girl feel, not super babyish so that was reflected in the color palette. I knew pink and purple would have to be a part of it but also added orange, aqua, lime and aqua throw in some rick rack, buttons, handmade yo yo's and this colorful jacket gets RAVES every time we are out and about. Fun thing about it is we have lots and lots of colorful clothes to go with it.

I used an assortment of fabrics, 1/8-1/4 yard each and various sizes of rick rack 1-1.5 yards each. I really did not have a plan except that I new I wanted to cover the back completely and do some embellishments to the top, and that I wanted to cover the pockets and the placard below the pockets. I still want to add some crystals or hot fix rhinestones to the upper chest portions and maybe the sleeves.

I did lots of measuring and math to get the correct dimensions for the back, I also did this wrong. It was wrong that my math was too perfect to the size I wanted which meant it finished on the heavy seams, since I have an industrial machine this was no problem, but if not there is no way I could have sewn through my fabrics and the seams, so either bigger or smaller by 1/2 inch would be better. I would recommend making paper templates of all pieces, then add your seam allowances to come up with your finished pieces.

Sewing the pieces onto the denim, a form of machine applique:
I made my square for the back then used interfacing, actually I used pattern ease as this is what I had on hand so it had grids which were not a problem, if it were lighter fabrics those might show through. I would recommend a light weight sew in type for this application, I used this on the back piece, the front placards and the squares on the back top detail.

Make your component then sew RIGHT SIDES TO RIGHT SIDES to the interfacing, you can sew it all the way closed because you are going to cut a slit in the center to turn right side out, also trim the corners as needed and poke cleanly, press your piece. Now all your seams are inside and it is ready to be sewn down, I sew as close to the edge as possible to get a clean look to your piece.

Sew your applique piece right sides together to your interfacing

Back piece turned, pressed ready to applique

Sew down to jacket

Completed patch sew down

Front piece ready to be turned and pressed

Sew down

Square for back, fabric to fabric, same method, sew, clip corners, turn and press

Squares sewn down by machine, yo yo's sewn down attached by hand with a button to help secure

For the pockets I made a paper template, and then built the pocket, this is a "sleeve that has been slid up over the pocket, then sewn down, I seed from the top all the way through the jacket, actually closing the pocket so it is not functional to put anything inside or to snap close.

Pocket is two pieces of the paper template (in fabric) sewn right sides to right sides, then the top opening is press to encase seams, slide over pocket sew.

Applying rick rack, for the jumbo I used fray check, then folded it under itself for the bottom trim, I sewed all along the top and bottom edge with a matching thread.


Thinner rick rack can be just sewn down the center, I used a mono-filament thread on the blue detail.

Additional detail on the sleeves, a simple tube turned right side out, sewn down

Pretty much done, I am going to be on the lookout for more bling for the top, but so far it has been a great piece that goes with most of my daughters colorful wardrobe!
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